THE MORTAL
PANACEA

Hunting for Mushrooms

Nothing can stop a Yunnan native from heading towards mushrooms. As heavy rain poured down on Nanjie Luo Mountain, we scrambled to find shelter while Li Shangming headed towards an old tree leaning on the edge of a cliff. The white umbrella-like mushrooms on the tree trunk twinkled in the pouring rain, and below stood a thirty-meter-high cliff.

"Hunting for mushrooms" is an instinct ingrained in the genes of the people of Yunnan, especially in a pristine haven like Nanjie Luo in July and August, which is rich in natural resources.

Nanjie Luo is located in Weixi County, Shangri-La, Yunnan Province, in the heart of the Three Rivers Confluence World Natural Heritage Site, where the Jinsha River, Nu River, and Lancang River converge. According to ancient legends, Nanjie Luo used to consist only of mountains, water, forests, and meadows. The story goes that the mountain god Kawagabo rode a tall horse from the Yanzi Cliff towards Meili Snow Mountain. When passing through Nanjie Luo, Kawagabo dismounted to drink water, and his prayer beads fell by accident, creating the lakes. Featuring high-altitude lakes, this area combines landscapes like snow-capped mountains, meadows, primitive forests, and waterfalls of various sizes. It remains a primitive sanctuary yet to be fully explored, and Li Shangming grew up in one such secret realm.

Li Shangming is a member of the local Lisu ethnic group and served as our guide during our trip to Nanjie Luo. His family lives halfway up the mountain, and his ancestors have been gathering medicinal herbs there for generations, making him well-acquainted with the temperament of these hills.

The weather in the mountains is unpredictable, with thick fog capable of forming quickly in a matter of minutes as if the forest itself was exhaling. People just a few meters ahead can be swallowed up by the fog, but even in the densest of conditions, Li Shangming can still accurately find those hidden paths.Certain things are ingrained in one's bones, such as walking in the mountains or searching for medicinal herbs. There are no paved roads in the mountains, only trails known to the locals that are often obscured by lush vegetation. It's only when you get close that you can faintly see the traces trodden by feet for centuries.

In some places, it can't even be called a path. It might just be an old tree that happened to fall there at the end of its life, with swift-flowing water or deep ravines underneath. Climbing on moss-covered dead tree trunks becomes the only "bridge." Li Shangming effortlessly walks across these slippery logs as if on level ground. He has to stop and wait for us to "shuffle" over every stretch of the road. Often, before we even reach him, he spots herbs several meters away, mingling among a pile of plants in the green sea. It's hard not to suspect that he has some kind of extraordinary ability.

He wears a windbreaker, a windproof hat on his head, and carries a bamboo basket on his back to hold the mushrooms and herbs he collects. Unlike before, he now has a crossbow tied around his waist and a quiver made of animal fur. A short arrow is inserted in the front brim of his hat. "The Lisu people used to be a hunting tribe. Keeping it here means it's convenient to quickly retrieve when encountering animals or danger. This quiver has a lid, which makes it not as easy to grab," explained Li Shangming.

The crossbow was passed down from Li Shangming's grandfather's generation. The marks of time are clearly visible on it, but it is evident that the owner has carefully preserved it over the years. Arrows of different types are neatly categorized in the quiver as if still on standby. Only the rust spots on the poisoned metal arrow, once used to deal with large animals, remind us that it has long lost its former function.

The 43 Turns

The imprints of the primitive way of life are slowly fading away. Li Shangming knows where to find different herbs, but he can't pinpoint the specific reasons. The paths were marked by his ancestors, and he can distinguish which plants are herbs from a distance, but he can't name every herb on this mountain. Everything is a generations-old, instinctual familiarity, but from the Lisu language to Chinese, some things have been filtered out.

He doesn't often go up the mountain alone; he usually goes with a companion. "Being alone in the mountains can be frightening." His cousin, Feng Zhihua, is his most frequently called partner. He doesn't talk much but can climb trees skilfully, almost as if he is lightly embracing the tree trunk. With a few dozen pounds on his back, he strides through the mountain path, breathing steady. He is as at ease in the mountains as he is at home. Everything is routine for him. He walks ahead, absorbed in his own world. If we don't ask, he won't even realize he needs to introduce anything in the mountains to us visitors.Compared to his cousin who has always lived here, Li Shangming seems more like a traveler who has been away for a long time and is slightly unfamiliar when returning to his parents. He has an instinctual fondness and familiarity with the mountains, but he is also a bit cautious. He studied and worked outside for ten years before returning to this mountain last year. Like many young people who have strived to leave the mountains, Li Shangming also yearned for the world on the other side of the 43 Turns.

The 43 Turns is the only road connecting Nanjie Luo to the outside world. It winds and twists, strewn with broken stones and mud. It’s only wide enough for one car to pass, and if you encounter a vehicle from the opposite direction, you must pull over to the mountainside to make way. As the altitude keeps rising, you have to navigate through 43 turns with angles of less than 45 degrees. Even local drivers find it difficult to maneuver through the sharp turns, and more than two-thirds require multiple adjustments and backing up to pass.In the 1990s, a private boss attempted to mine lead and zinc in an area over 4,000 meters above sea level. He spent millions building this road, which led to Nanjie Luo, but before this, people here could only traverse the mountains on foot, using cableways to cross the Lancang River. It was very dangerous, and it took up to two days to get to the town. Many of the older generations had never left, spending their lives gathering herbs and herding in the mountains, often staying there for four or five months at a time. Li Shangming's 74-year-old mother has never been to the county town and only speaks Lisu.

"Leaving" is the main theme of many young people's adolescence here. Li Shangming left, but now he's back, and he says,

"I don't want to leave anymore."

Contract

The first time Li Shangming went to gather herbs was in middle school, and all he remembers is feeling tired. "At that time, I didn't have a concept. It was just for survival. Our family was too poor, I couldn't go out, and outside culture couldn't come in."

He has since rekindled his connection with this land. Nanjie Luo and the Lisu ethnicity are no longer just hometown labels on forms for him. They have become specific things like herbs that will "runaway" if you cut their roots, wildflowers in the mountains in summer, lakes that will "rain" if "disturbed," and snow lotus flowers that bring great delight when spotted.

“The natural resources here are very rich, and it's very comfortable to interact with nature here. You can shout as you please, and you don't have to worry about others. Although the process of digging herbs is tiring because their location is often deep in the mountains, it's very happy, very pure. There's no signal in the mountains, you’re completely cut off from the world, and you don't have to think about anything. When the weather is clear and you're tired, you can lie down anywhere. The sky is rotating and it’s very comfortable.

Sometimes, when I hear that bird call, the tone is like calling my name in Lisu, I will talk to it.”

Back in Nanjie Luo, Li Shangming, in addition to gathering herbs, took up the role of a local guide, retracing the herb-gathering routes his parents once traversed. In a wooden hut on the mountain, which is used for drying herbs, he kindled a fire to roast small potatoes for us. This wooden hut is the only refuge on the mountain. In the past, when people would gather herbs and herd here for several months at a time, they would collect the herbs here, dry them, and then carry them down when returning home. Inside the hut, there are blankets and utensils for boiling tea and cooking. The teapot smoked black by the firewood, bears witness to the footsteps of batches of herb gatherers in the mountains and now it welcomes waves of visitors from afar."These are the most primitive wild potatoes. They are especially fragrant when roasted. This brick tea, with a little salt, can alleviate altitude sickness..."

Many things are gradually revitalized in new forms, just like how Li Shangming, in the process of being a guide, is getting closer and closer to his hometown. In this process, he is relearning and understanding the information conveyed by this land, picking up fragments left behind in the past.

But there are some things he hopes will not change, such as the scattered lakes. In the hearts of the locals, these lakes have a spirituality, and when walking by the lakeside, one must speak softly as if the lake is disturbed, it will rain heavily in the mountains. In the year of mining, there were continuous months of heavy rain in the mountains, with the resulting torrents uprooting large trees and sweeping them away. The elders say it was the miners who disturbed the lakes in the mountains.

Li Shangming's favorite is Lake No. 10 because it "is like a celestial eye, the most spiritual. Just approaching it can bring calm." In recent years, there have been more and more people coming here, and he feels that a few lakes have lost that spirituality. He believes it is necessary to maintain the initial "contract" with the lakes, just as the generations of people in Nanjie Luo once did.

Imprints of these "contracts" can be seen everywhere in the mountains. In the past, herb gatherers often needed to seek shelter from the rain and build fires under large trees. They established a convention to choose a designated tree. Over time, the area under the old tree became empty, but on the trunk, new shoots were emerging. Now, in order to better protect the local ecology, lighting fires in the forest is prohibited, and some shelters, such as caves that provide protection from the rain, have been passed down from generation to generation. Herb gatherers understand and strictly adhere to the natural cycle, maintaining the order of the mountains and reaping the gifts bestowed by them.

"This tree, although its hollow and dry inside, its outer bark is still moist. Its root system below is very robust, and the adjacent water source is also abundant, so it has been living like this. It has a strong vitality. No matter how thick the snow presses, it will not break its roots; it will not be crushed."

What's the most challenging part of the herb-gathering process?

Li Shangming: The herbs grow deep in the mountains, and climbing is a must. Many places have no paths, and sometimes, it takes a day or two to reach the herb-gathering spots. It's exhausting, and the trails are steep. One can easily slip if not careful. Some herbs are only available in winter, and during deep winter, they're covered by snow. This increases the difficulty and danger. If there's an avalanche, it can be very dangerous.

How do you deal with an avalanche if you encounter one?

Li Shangming: Avalanches happen very quickly, and we can't outrun them. So, we try to find large rocks and hide in the corners beneath them. The snow falls from above, and the rocks can block it, helping us escape disaster.

How were these small paths found?

Li Shangming: They were all marked by the older generation in the past. There were originally no paths in the mountains. When they were searching for herbs, they used knives to make marks. Some of these marks are still faintly visible after more than ten years. If you don't follow these marks, you might end up at a cliff and won't be able to get across.

What criteria do you consider when selecting a shelter location for gathering Chinese herbs?

Li Shangming: Firstly, it should be windproof and sheltered from the wind. Secondly, it should be rainproof, such as a large tree or a cave. In these places, fires can be started easily. Thirdly, there should be a water source nearby.

How do you choose herbs, and what do you need to pay attention to?

Li Shangming: Herbs are not everywhere. They are found in small areas where they can grow. When gathering, start with the larger ones. Leave the smaller ones for later. They will flower and pollinate, leaving seeds behind. This way, you can gather every year.

What are some weather signs that can be recognized in the mountains?

Li Shangming: The lower and more numerous the swallows fly, the more likely it is to rain and fog. Generally, when animals are very excited, it tends to rain. The marmots that usually hide in the mountains will also come out.

There are more people hiking here now. What are the impacts?

Li Shangming: Nanjie Luo is a treasure, and it's great that more and more people know about it. Some of the local culture can be spread. However, some tourists have a very poor awareness of environmental protection. For example, they casually throw plastic trash, which doesn't biodegrade and is very detrimental to the ecology.

Additionally, there are many precious herbs here. Some people will secretly gather them, like snow lotus flowers. It takes over a decade for one to grow to that size. Once it's picked, the root is broken, and there won't be any next year. In fact, it will take another decade for it to grow back.

What are some local folk traditions that you hope will continue to be preserved and passed down for more people to know about?

Li Shangming: The traditional attire of the Lisu people, as well as the Kuoshi Festival, the grandest festival of the Lisu people. "Kuoshi" is transliterated from the Lisu language, meaning "New Year" and it's equivalent to the Chinese New Year. There's also the Lisu song and dance, "Achimu Gua," which can be performed without musical instruments. It's been applied for intangible cultural heritage status. I hope all of these can be passed down.

Can you describe your relationship with Nanjie Luo in one sentence?

Li Shangming: I'm a native of this land.